Wandering around the shopping arcades in Paris this weekend, I could almost picture what it must have been like 150 years ago to dress in a fancy gown and stroll along the corridors of these glass-covered passages; sheltered from any inclimate weather and muddy streets outside. The first Parisian shopping arcades were built in the early 19th century, and were quite the modern marvel of the day. Many of them still stand today, and most (though not all) are still extraordinarily beautiful.
We happened to visit a few this weekend on a bright and sunny day without many visitors around, which is probably the best time to take it all in. I think a bit of the beauty would have been lost if the halls had been packed with lots of people. As it was, the peaceful passageways were a quiet nod to the eternal beauty of this city.
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This weekend, eight of us jumped in two cars from Paris to spend the weekend in a country house in Burgundy. Friday was a national holiday here (Aug 15, the Assumption of Mary), as Catholicism is still the dominant religion in France when it comes to getting days off from work. So to set the scene a bit, the house we stayed in has been in the family of one of my colleagues at work for over 30 years, and is in a village that boasts about 250 people between 4 different communes. There is no local bakery, grocery, butcher, or cheese shop; those are conveniences for bigger towns. And the star of our weekend was none other than this gorgeous lady right here. Meet Peggy (the Piggy): Yes, ladies and gentlemen, we spent all of Friday in the French countryside spit-roasting a hog in the backyard with about twenty locals. I can honestly say that I would not have expected this type of experience so soon (ever?) after arriving in France. I am not even a huge meat-eater, and this was some savage business.
I snapped some photos of the process from start to finish. But be warned, these are not for the feint-hearted... Guess who got a care package from Lady O'Malley this week? WE DID!!! Some of the finer delicacies include Ziplock baggies, almond butter, granola, Advil, Reese's peanut butter cups (in multiple sizes), and an awesome pair of Toms. These are all things you would think we could easily get here, but not so much.
Ah, America in a box! So touched. This past weekend, I checked out an exposition at the Petit Palais on Paris 1900, which highlighted the city at the turn of the century as it hosted the 1900 World's Fair (here, called the Exposition Universelle). Paris was absolutely glorious and vibrant in 1900. The Eiffel Tower had been the triumph of the previous World's Fair in Paris (1889), and this would be the launch of the Art Nouveau movement. Wikipedia tells me this was also where talking films and escalators first made their debut to the masses, and where Campbell's Soup was awarded a gold medal... for awesome soupiness? Today's exhibit showcases the many faces of Paris in 1900 from its nightlife to fashion, furniture, art, and of course the Worlds' Fair itself. All within the beautiful walls of the Petit Palais, which is an Art Nouveau masterpiece itself. We have reached that magical time of year when French people disappear from Paris. Also known as August. Since arriving in Paris, we have been told on numerous occasions that residents abandon the city en masse in August. I'm not entirely sure I would have known this as a visitor to Paris, but I imagine that there are quite a few tourists here wondering if France is in a seriously deep recession, as half of the shops are shuttered and look abandoned. Below is the storefront of one of my go-to shops on the market street in our neighborhood, which has closed shop from July 28 to Sept 2. Can you imagine a small business closing for a whole month? I guess if they haven't closed after 77 years in business, they probably know what they are doing. And it's not just this shop. Small businesses all across the city are closed, with signs on windows announcing the dates that the owner and their employees are "on vacation", wishing everyone who passes a very good summer. Even our cafeteria at work is closed for the entire month of August. The scant few employees who remain are forced to eat mediocre sandwiches from the cafe or venture out in hopes of finding something open. One of my favorite signs I've seen so far is on our local bakery downstairs. Not only was the announcement issued by the Professional Artisan Bakers Association, it also lists the nearest bakery in the neighborhood that will remain open while they are away. You know, for all your baked-goods emergencies. Heaven forbid a Parisian not know where to find the nearest baguette. While it may sound like I'm against some of my favorite shops closing down for a whole month, I actually find the French approach to balancing work and life to be quite appealing, and so contrary to how we operate in the US. I can't remember the last time I heard of a small business owner in the States packing it in for a few weeks to take some time to relax. I'm sure it's not economically the smartest move, but I think everyone needs a good holiday from work every once in a while.
Ever wondered if Parisians get take out or delivery? Probably not. But I bet you would if you lived here and were occasionally too lazy to cook for yourself or otherwise scavenge for a restaurant actually open that offers take-away on a Saturday night... but REALLY wanted Indian food. Enter AlloResto.fr (hello restaurant!) to make all our made-to-order lazy dreams come true. There really isn't a big take away culture here in France, so being able to order and pay for your food entirely online, and have it show up at your doorstep around 45 minutes later, is a really big deal. On the menu tonight? Palak paneer and butter chicken from one of my favorite Indian restaurants. They also threw in some free onion bhaji and dessert, and managed to show up 15 minutes earlier than scheduled! I don't expect that happens very often in Paris as they don't exactly emphasize customer service in this city, but I sure did appreciate it today.
And here are the details of the restaurant, in case you find yourself in the neighborhood in need of a good biryani. Le Palais de Raja-Maharaja 21 Rue d'Ouessant (15th arrondissement) Open every day, 11:30 am–3 pm and 6 pm - midnight |
AuthorBecause why not get married and move to Paris to really kick off your thirties? Archives
December 2016
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